This season’s collection will hence be remembered only for its capsule collaboration with Supreme.
Louis Vuitton’s collaboration with Supreme for its Fall/Winter 2017 menswear collection is as groundbreaking as it is thought-provoking. Kim Jones has really done it this time with his menswear collection for the luxury French brand.
The collaboration – or the fact of it, at least – is ground-breaking. What used to be a persistent debate about the mixing of street and high fashion (that is, anything these days with an exorbitant price tag) and the demarcation of those two segments. By readily adopting the Supreme box logo, and here it is slapped on amongst the French brand’s heritage quatrefoil monogram, Jones has settled the argument.
Though the question squarely remains whether this is a case of Supreme levelling up or Vuitton bending downwards. It’s strange to think that the preorders this collaboration will receive will come largely from Supreme fans – the kind that shell out money for a literal brick because it has a logo on it. Logomania took hold of the fashion consciousness for a while as an ironic play on 90s excess, but with this collection we’re right back in the non-figurative spin of things. People really are buying expensive things just because there’s a logo on it.
That aside, the clothes were wonderful. Kim Jones has an exceedingly convincing vocabulary of what it means to be a Louis Vuitton man. Primarily, it’s a sense of ease and supremely (pardon) effortless confidence belonging to the most worldly of men and the most seasoned of travellers. It’s such a beautiful and convincing statement because despite the brand’s profile, it’s an accessible aspiration. Read widely, embrace art openly, listen freely, and you could be just as cultured as Jones’ men.
Fall/Winter 2017 features an evolution. In fact, he’s gotten younger. The Louis Vuitton man is, perhaps by way of skate association, a more youthful figure now. This showed too in the silhouettes Jones opted to cut his suits and casual separates in. Relaxed jackets and airy trousers worn alongside side bags, sneakers and hats cut a really attractive form. Whoever wore those clothes, you simply got the sense that you were observing a connoisseur off-duty.
Highlights clothing-wise included the pale washed Japanese denim shirts, fil coupé fabrics, and the silk patterned pyjama shirts.
A stand-out moment though was the appearance of this bag:
It made me remember how adept Louis Vuitton’s mens arm is at creating desirable accessories as well. With Nicolas Ghesquière that question is moot and any doubt feels silly. Men’s, however, is traditionally classical and restrained – usually even more so when you’re a brand with standing and heritage like Vuitton.
Here, though, the design is assuredly simple and functional while weaving in a fantastic choice of leather finish. Topped off with a relatively subtle bit of branding on the front, a thick shoulder strap in monogram and a hangtag in contrasting red – it’s a real tasty temptation.